Russian "Ural" Funny Cartoons

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Plowing snow in Coeur d'Alene with "URAL"

At Lawrence's Motorcycles in Coeur d'Alene, ID owner Lucky shows off his mocked-up "Ural Patrol Plow"... When it's 14 degrees outside, they'll think up and try using anything to keep the parking lot clear of snow so the serious riders can get there!

I lost my keys!

No you’re not… With a little bit of romancing and a bit of common sense you may be able to make it home in time for your favorite TV show.

Forced entry is easy and there are so many ways to do it. In this topic you will learn some tips on how to actually “steal your car”. Stealing other peoples car/bikes or property is never nice so please don’t use what you will learn here for your dark sneaky ninja purposes. Just remember that if ever you steal somebody’s car or bike or property, the person may have bought it from credit and is really stretching his belt just to pay for it and it is against the law to do such crimes.

In this topic you will learn how easy it is to get inside “your” car without keys that you can use during emergency situations and will also get the idea how to think more wisely to prevent your vehicle from getting stolen from you.

So lets get dirty.

Just imagine you are at the beach and you saw a very sexy lady pass by and you accidentally locked your door without pulling the keys off the ignition. You can’t go to the beach because rubber ducky is still inside (no man of action will go to the beach without his rubber ducky…)

Your first option is to ask for help or to borrow a phone from somebody to call the lock smith or a car mechanic (remember that not all mechanics are good opening doors…). If you can do this and wait for a lock smith to come, this will be your best option.

Your second best option is try to open it yourself (w/c is my first and best option because I can open up “most” locked doors and friends told me that I look “cool” just like the movie “gone in 60 seconds” but sometimes it takes me more than 60 seconds or up to 15 minutes because I’m not really good at this, but if I’m successful doing it in less than 60 then I’ll really look “cool”). But if I can’t really open it, I’ll just break my door glass and just replace the glass with an old one at the scrappers.
Remember that you can open “your” door several different ways but for me I will first try to search for a strong straight metal wire that I can use to manipulate the door lock. You can use a cheap metal clothes hanger. Some wires are available somewhere and I prefer the wires used for fences because they are stronger. Say you have a strong wire about 50 centimeters long. First you have to stretch the wire straight and bend one end about 10 to 13 centimeters from the end and create a “U” like shape. Then bend about 10 centimeters on the other end about 90 degrees, this end will act as your handle. Bend both ends at the same line so you will know where the “U” is going by looking at the angle of the handle.

You will also be needing something flat like a screw driver, knife, etc. This tool works best for doors that have the lock knob positioned on the top side of the door. Slowly insert your screw driver or knife between the door glass and the weather strip and insert your funky homemade door lock fishing rod and just fish for the lock knob. Remember that some of the more expensive cars have anti-theft metals positioned to cover the area to prevent anybody from sliding down a hook (just like the fish hook you have made). Some have plates covering the main locking unit (it is positioned on the side of the door and is visible when the door is open) so using a slim jim is also impossible.

To use a slim jim is also just like fishing but you are fishing for the lever or rod that manipulates the lock. Lock levers are positioned differently so you may have to pull up or push down the slim jim to move the lock lever. The idea is just like the “fish hook tool” where you have to slide the slim jim down in between the door glass and the weather strip and you will also need to use a screw driver or a knife to make insertion easy. Aim for the main door lock unit on the side and push or fish until you open the lock. Once its open, just grab the door opener lever and you are in!

Some old cars locks can be manipulated through the hole found on the inside part of the door opener lever. Pull the door opener lever upwards and there is an hole where the lever goes inside the car. You can use these holes to insert a strong bent wire to get to the lock lever. I have never been successful doing this but I have seen some guys who are really good with this. Some guys just pings one side of the door opener lever because there are some lousy car makes who makes door locks that are bolted in “plastic”. I will not say here w/c models they are to prevent dumb wise ass guys from opening these kinds of cars… The idea is very easy, just insert a large screw driver on one side of the door opener lever and just pry it off. After prying, you will see the opening or holes which you can easily slide in a screw driver or an L shape tool to move the lock lever. In some models, I can even insert my small finger… that easy!
The easiest thing to do is to just break the door glass using a glass hammer or by inserting a flat screw driver on between the weather strip and the glass on one of the corners and just ping or pry, the glass should break off easily but you will have to sit on broken glass the rest of your way home and that will not be nice especially if you only brought your swimming trunks with you… If you really have to do this, remove as much broken glass on the seat as possible and put a card board, news paper, towel or anything just to keep your butt from being molested by the broken glass. Wearing jeans is another best option.

I have included a photo of the tools I use to open up my cars. I made the picks myself and they are made from strong spring steel and flattened brass pipes for handles. The levers are made from nails. My fish hook is from a fence wire. I bought the slim jims at the tool shop. I still have some more jimmys and wedges but I think this is enough…

The other photo is taken when I opened a crashed/damaged car. The car was rammed on its side that jammed the door locked solid. I have the key but the lock rods were badly bent and I just couldn’t get the levers to open. Since the car is basically scrap, I just chiseled my way through the metal and moved the lock lever with a more powerful hand tool. Then I use a large crow bar and just pry the door open. I think that this idea can also be used for saving somebody during a car crash or accident.

Sometimes I still repair or buy smacked cars and I often use this technique. Sometimes I use door spreader, pullers, scissor jacks and sometime I just tie a steel cable on the door and tie another end on my 4WD and just rip the door apart. This is fun but I cannot advice you to do this because this can be dangerous.

Source: Repair Guides

Thunderbike Spectacula

On 26th March 2006, Thunderbike won the "European Championship Of Custom Bike Builder" and the "Public Choice Award" with their hottest Showbike "Spectacula".

127 custom bikes of famous manufacturers from 19 countries participated on this competition.

The bike created in modern lines of motorcycle design, this motorcycle differs careful of the lines which were brought to perfection. This motorcycle can be characterized as harmony of lines and forms. Some elements can be named eclectic and not functional, but the same show bike. A harmonious image - here what could be the name of the bike.

SPECS
Builder: Thunderbike
Owner: Thunderbike
Location: Hamminkeln
Country: Germany
Bike Name: Spectacula
Bike Year/Model: 2006
Engine Make/Size: TP 124cui
Transmission Size/Type: Revtech
Frame Make/Type: Thunderbike / Spectacula
Front End: Thunderbike "Spectacula"
Stretch: +6"
Swingarm: Thunderbike "Spectacula"
Wheels-Front: Thunderbike 3,5x21"
Wheels-Rear: Thunderbike 11x18"
Tires-Front: 120/70 21 Metzeler ME880
Tires-Rear: 300/35 18 Metzeler ME880
Brakes-Front: Thunderbike
Brakes-Rear: Thunderbike
Painter: Ingo Kruse - Germany
Chroming/Plating: ALU Concept - Germany

Additional Information
Special internal fork brake system, front and rear airridesystem, hidden secondary drive system.

Source: ...

Motorcycle accident

My new dream - 2007 Yamaha YZF-R1

Yamaha just released the specs of their Flagship in sportbikes. This bike is light, its fast and will give you hours of insane fun. Wife might not agree, but this is a boys toy,of for the select few ladies that like their bikes fast and BIG, this is for you!

All-new, light, powerful and packaged with MotoGP technology, the YZF-Rr1 is the most advanced Open-class production motorcycle ever built with the world's first electronic variable-length intake funnel system.

Key Features:

• All-new, light, powerful and packed with trickle-down MotoGP trickery, the YZF-R1 is the most advanced Open-class production motorcycle ever built.
• All-new inline four-cylinder engine is the most powerful, tractable R1 powerplant ever, thanks partially to the world’s first electronic variable-length intake funnel system.
• The YZF-R1 uses the YCC-T fly-by-wire throttle system for flawless response under all conditions.
• Slipper-type back torque-limiting clutch greatly facilitates braking/downshifting from high speed.
• All-new aluminum Deltabox frame and swingarm take Open-class handling to the next performance level.
• New, six-piston radial-mount front brake calipers and 310mm discs generate the kind of braking power a bike like the new R1 requires.

Engine:

• Short-stroke 998cc DOHC, 16-valve, liquid-cooled inline four- cylinder engine produces more tractable power than ever.
• Yamaha Chip Control Throttle controls a 32-bit ECU fuel injection system for super-responsive, smooth, instantaneous power delivery.
• Yamaha Chip Control Intake electronically adjusts intake funnel length between either 65 or 140mm for an amazingly broad, smooth powerband.
• Two-piece ergonomically designed fuel tank carries fuel in the rear section, for good centralization of mass, while the front half contains a Ram-Air-fed airbox for increased power.
• Lay-down design cylinder head optimizes weight distribution, straightens intake tracts for improved cylinder filling, and allows frame to pass over instead of around the engine for great strength and a narrow chassis.
• Closed-deck cylinder block increases strength and allows a narrow engine in spite of big, 77mm bores.
• Narrow-angle four-valve combustion chambers produce a highly efficient 12.7:1 compression ratio; 31mm titanium intake valves and 25mm exhausts controlled by new, high-lift cams flow plenty of air.
• Light and strong nutless connecting rods with fractured big ends produce a quick-revving engine with excellent high-rpm durability.
• High silicon-content ceramic-composite cylinder sleeves ensure great heat dissipation for consistent power delivery and reduced friction.
• Close-ratio six-speed gearbox with triangulated shaft layout for great strength, compactness, and quicker acceleration.
• Ramp-type slipper clutch makes braking from speed into tight corners while downshifting smoother and therefore faster.
• Redesigned titanium underseat exhaust system (with stainless steel midpipe and catalyst) provides excellent cornering clearance and a broad, seamless powerband.
• 13-percent greater radiator capacity and an aluminum liquid-cooled oil cooler maintain stable operating temperature.
• Direct ignition coils, dual-electrode spark plugs and high-output magneto deliver extremely accurate, reliable firing.
• AC generator behind cylinder block produces a narrow engine with excellent corne

Chassis/Suspension:

• An all-new Deltabox frame tuned for optimal flex carries the lay-down four-cylinder stressed-member style, for great handling and efficient aerodynamic penetration.
• A new truss-type swingarm is extremely strong and tuned for optimal traction and feedback.
• Dual 310mm front disc brakes; new, six-piston radial-mount calipers and Brembo radial-pump front master cylinder with adjustable lever deliver amazing braking power and feel.
• Fully adjustable KYB inverted telescopic front fork with 43mm tubes has been revalved to complement other chassis changes.
• Piggyback rear shock now offers both high- and low-speed compression adjustability, rebound damping and a new, twist-style spring preload adjuster.
• Light, five-spoke wheels enhance acceleration, deceleration, handling and suspension action.

Additional Features:

• Redesigned headlights provide great illumination and distinctive style, while the LED taillight is light, bright and highly efficient.
• Adjustable LCD illumination and multi-function digital gauges: adjustable shift light, odometer, dual tripmeters, water temperature, air temperature, full-time clock, lap timer and large 15,000 rpm analog tachometer.
• New-design fairing with bigger Ram-Air intakes and screwless windscreen provides maximum aerodynamic efficiency and engine performance.
• Sticky 120/70-ZR17 and 190/50-ZR17 radial tires for incredible grip and precise handling.
• Forged footpegs are extra durable and light.
• Extensive use of hollow bolts and lightweight fasteners helps trim overall weight.
• 8.6 AH battery is compact and light.
• Durable #530 O-ring–sealed drive chain.
• Standard toolkit located in convenient storage compartment under passenger seat.

Motorcycle special forces from Taiwan.

Soldiers from Taiwan's elite special forces ride motorcycles from a helicopter during a drill in southern Tainan county March 8, 2007. Taiwan's elite special forces would likely find themselves at the front lines if war were to break out between Taiwan and China, which considers the democratically ruled island a wayward province since its split from the mainland at the end of a civil war in 1949. Training and motivation are essential as Taiwan's army of 130,000 ground troops is outnumbered more than 10-to-one by China's People's Liberation Army. Picture taken on March 8, 2007. To match feature TAIWAN-ARMY/ REUTERS/C.C.Yao (TAIWAN)

Source: yahoo news